Surfing Indonesia as an Intermediate Surfer (My Experience)

The first time I got to surf Indonesia, I had only been surfing for about three years. It was also my first time visiting the archipelago. I was in Java, in Pangandaran, and that was about 14 years ago.

In those 14 years, I went back to Indonesia numerous times and spent eight winters there, mainly in Bali.

Here’s my experience surfing Indonesia as a beginner, an intermediate surfer and, eventually, as someone who felt relatively comfortable in the Indonesian lineup (up to double overhead). I’m definitely no Maya Gabeira, but it sure helped me improve my surf skills (and pain tolerance, lol).

Quick note: Even though Indonesia has some of the most perfect waves on the planet, a lot of the famous spots break over shallow reef, can get very powerful and have strong currents. Always go with a local surf coach or guide.

Java

Java is Indonesia’s most populous island and, compared with Bali, it’s a different world. There are many great and well-known waves here, including G-Land, but there are also much more approachable places where you can surf without throwing yourself onto a shallow reef.

For female surfers, I’ve found Java to be welcoming. People are often curious and friendly, and don’t be surprised if someone asks to take a photo with you, just because you’re a foreigner.

Surfing Pangandaran: great for beginners

Let’s start where I started: in Pangandaran! Pangandaran is a small coastal town on the south coast of West Java where a National Park is as well. The main coastline has a long stretch of beach breaks, with different peaks depending on the swell and tide. Many sections are mellow enough for beginners and intermediates.

There are surf schools and board rentals around Pangandaran and nearby Batu Karas (also a famous longboarding spot, can get really busy nowadays). Current reports put basic board rental at around Rp100,000 per day (around 5 euro), and a two-hour lesson with board rental can be around Rp350,000.

Where to stay

• Budget: You can find many guesthouses and homestays around Pangandaran Beach. This is where you’ll get the most local experience and easiest access to the beach.
• Mid-range: Jeng Ratu Hotel & Resort is a more comfortable option close to the beach.
• Higher-end: Horison Palma Pangandaran offers more hotel-style comfort and is still conveniently located for surfing.

Support local: Rather than spending your entire trip inside international resorts, eat at local warungs, book lessons with local surf instructors and use locally owned accommodation where possible.

Surfing G-Land

G-Land, man, how I love that place. I’ll definitely go back one day. I think I made some of the best surf memories of my life there.

But G-Land is not a place I would recommend to a beginner. It picks up a ton of swell, has a sharp and unforgiving reef, and the main waves can get seriously powerful. I stupidly refused to wear reef booties and ended up having to walk home over razor-sharp reef for about 30 minutes because of the low tide.

Think I’ve learned my lesson? Nope. I hate wearing booties, so next time I’ll probably do the same. This is just a case of doing as the teacher says, not as she does. 😉

G-Land, or Grajagan Bay, is a world-famous surf spot located in Alas Purwo National Park in southeast Java and is known for its insanely long left-hand waves. Getting there is part of the adventure: you can travel overland through the national park but the easiest way is to take a fast boat from Bali.

The wave has several sections, the first of which is called Kongs. Waves there can run for hundreds of meters and can easily reach four times overhead. The further west you go, the shallower it gets, and the wave gets hollower and faster. 

That fast section is fittingly called Speedies. That’s where a huge barrel can form, which is the holy grail for most surfers coming to G-Land. It’s also where most accidents happen, because the water is so shallow (it sits on a raised, flat reef table).

The good thing is that G-Land isn’t just one wave. There are different sections and nearby breaks, so when the main waves are too big and brutal, you can move to more sheltered spots that don’t pick up quite as much swell.

For an intermediate surfer, that variety can make G-Land super fun. But I’d still go with a local guide or an experienced surf camp rather than figuring everything out yourself.

Where to stay

G-Land is different from most surf destinations because you can’t choose between a dozen hotels in town. The only option is staying at a surf camp. 

• Budget: Jack’s G-Land Surf Camp has standard rooms from around US$549 for a three-night package, including the boat transfer.
• Mid-range: G-Land Joyo’s Surf Camp offers several packages. Their standard package is currently around Rp10.2 million for three nights, including accommodation, meals, transfers and surf transport.
• More comfortable: Joyo’s also has superior and VIP packages with air conditioning, private bathrooms and more comfortable accommodation.

Support local: You’re inside a national park, so your visit contributes to the area’s tourism economy and park fees. Choose a surf camp that works responsibly with local communities and respects the national park (such as Joyo’s).

Surfing Bali

When I first came to Bali in 2014, it was very different from now.

But this is something you’ll hear everyone say who has visited Bali before: it develops ridiculously fast. You can leave one little town for a week and come back to find three new shops, a new road, another villa development or a piece of land that has been sold or demolished for a padel court.

Of course, this mostly goes for the touristy parts. That’s where most people are and where most development takes place.

At the same time, there is a lot of campaigning and community work happening around Bali’s environmental and social issues. As a visitor, I think it’s important to acknowledge both sides: Bali has given so many people incredible experiences, but tourism also has consequences.

So spend your money mindfully. Eat at locally owned places, support local surf schools and businesses, avoid single-use plastic where you can, don’t litter and respect religious ceremonies and sacred places.

Bali is predominantly Hindu, and religious ceremonies are a huge part of everyday life. If you’re visiting a temple, wear clothing that covers your shoulders and knees and use a sarong and sash where required. Ask before photographing people, especially during religious events.

Even outside temples, I personally prefer to dress a little more conservatively when I’m staying in smaller villages. A bikini is quite normal on the beach, but walking (or driving your bike) around a local village in just your bikini isn’t respectful.

The following surf spots can all get busy, but they’re still beautiful places to visit and surf.

Canggu: great for beginners

Canggu is probably one of the easiest places in Indonesia for an intermediate surfer travelling alone. There are surf schools everywhere, board rentals everywhere, cafés, coworking spaces, accommodation for every budget and a huge international surf community.

But…everyone else knows this too. Canggu can be ridiculously crowded, both in the water and on the roads.

Batu Bolong is generally the most approachable surf spot, with a sandy-bottomed beach break that works well for beginners and intermediates. As you move towards Echo Beach, the waves become more powerful and suited to more experienced surfers.

If you’re a beginner or intermediate surfer, Canggu can be great for getting lots of water time. Just don’t expect solitude…

My favourite local surf coach would be Yudhi, he’s Javanese and teaches in Canggu and around. You can find him on instagram. He’s got a great and clear teaching style, and all my friends loved him too.

Uluwatu: intermediates and advanced

Uluwatu feels like the end of the world. Even though it’s often extremely busy, this is still my very favourite place on earth. The cliffs, the views, the temples and those long left-hand waves make it one of the most spectacular surf destinations in Indonesia.

And it’s definitely not a mellow wave. The main Uluwatu breaks are advanced reef breaks, with sections including Racetrack and Temples. The waves can be powerful, fast and shallow, and the lineup can be super competitive.

As an intermediate surfer, I’d only surf it when the conditions match your ability. There are more accessible options around the Bukit, such as Baby Padang or Thomas Beach, when you’re not ready for the serious stuff.

Also: learn how to get in and out.

That sounds obvious, but knowing where the channels, rocks and currents are is just as important as being able to surf the wave, especially in Uluwatu. When you’re ready to head back in, paddle a little to the right of the cave, as there’s a strong current running to the left. Ask locals or other surfers for advice when you’re there.

Keramas

Keramas is on Bali’s east coast and is a different type of wave from the long lefts of the west coast. It’s a right-hander and breaks over volcanic reef. It has hosted professional competitions, and it’s very fast. And soooo much fun.

I went in here for the first time as a nervous intermediate surfer, and it took me about 40 minutes to calm myself down (it was double overhead) before I was able to take a wave.

It’s also good to know that Keramas can work when the famous west-coast breaks aren’t at their best. The east coast becomes good during the wet season and shoulder months.

Do you get nervous when surfing bigger waves? Learn how to calm your nervous system with these simple vagus nerve stimulation techniques.

Medewi

If you’re an intermediate surfer who loves longboard-friendly, peeling waves, Medewi is great. Lots of other people know this too, though. Luckily, the local surf community is doing something about that by not letting surf instructors go into the water with too many students.

Medewi is on the west coast of Bali, closer to Java, and the main wave is a long left-hand point break. It breaks over a rocky/cobblestone bottom rather than a typical sharp coral reef and can offer incredibly long rides.

There’s black volcanic sand, fishing boats, small warungs and a much slower pace of life. The entrance and exit can be tricky because of the many slippery rocks and the current can be strong.

Tip: Dress appropriately when walking around the village. Medewi has a larger Muslim community than much of Bali, so I’d recommend covering up a little more when you’re away from the beach.

My favourite place to stay is the locally owned surf stay Dikaloha Surf Camp. Great vibes, comfy rooms, and peaceful.

Surfing the Mentawai Islands

The Ments are far, far away from everything. Getting there is an endeavour, especially if you’re travelling independently. You’ll normally travel through Padang in West Sumatra before continuing by ferry or speedboat to the islands.

But once you’re there, you probably never want to leave. The people are so friendly and welcoming!

Although the Mentawais have some of the most famous waves in the world, there are also plenty of waves for intermediate surfers. 

The main surf season runs roughly from April to October, with May to September generally bringing the most consistent swell. April, May, September and October are good if you want intermediate-friendly waves..

Tip: The islands are remote enough that you should take medical preparation seriously. Bring a proper first-aid kit, your personal medication and enough basic medical supplies for the entire trip.

Telescopes

Telescopes is one of the better-known breaks around the Mentawai area and is a beautiful wave to surf for intermediates when the conditions are right.

It’s a reef break and can become powerful, so your ability to read the reef, tides and swell matters. If you’re an intermediate surfer, go with local surf guides who know the area.

For affordable accommodation, Arthur’s Homestay is a popular, highly recommended local surf homestay right on Pantai Mapadegat.

Surfing Sumbawa

The first time I surfed Sumbawa, I rode there on a bike, all the way from Bali, through Lombok, to Lakey Peak in Sumbawa. It was a brutal ride (in terms of saddle soreness), but Lakey Peak definitely made it worth it. Pretty undeveloped, especially compared to Bali, and definitely not a place to expect your daily matcha latte.

Yoyo’s

Yoyo’s, around Sekongkang, is beautiful, the landscape is rugged and the waves can be super fun for intermediate surfers. There are several sports around the area, and the best thing you can do is get local advice about the conditions.

Lakey Peak

Lakey Peak is an A-frame reef break, with a longer left and a shorter, more technical right. When the swell gets good, both sides can get hollow and seriously fun.

But Lakey Peak is not a beginner wave.

Even for intermediates, you want to be honest with yourself about your ability. The reef is shallow and the wave can become fast and powerful. Confident intermediates can surf the Peak when it’s smaller, while the bigger days are better left to experienced surfers.

The great thing about the Lakey area is that there are several other breaks around Hu’u, so you don’t have to surf the Peak every day. Some nearby waves are more manageable and can give you the chance to enjoy Sumbawa without constantly putting yourself in over your head.

So if your ideal surf holiday involves surfing, nasi goreng, a hammock, a coconut and not much else, you’ll probably love it.

Surfing Lombok

I’m gonna wrap this post up with one final mention of Lombok. Lombok is easy to reach from Bali by bike and ferry, or you can fly directly into Lombok International Airport. It caters especially well to beginner and intermediate surfers, with Desert Point being the main exception (that’s one for advanced surfers only).

Gerupuk Inside & Outside and Are Guling

Spots in Lombok that can be great for beginners and intermediates include Gerupuk Inside and Outside, Selong Belanak and Are Guling. Are Guling is a fun right-hander with a relatively easy take-off, although localism can be a bit of a thing there, especially when it gets busy.

For beginners, I’d recommend starting at Gerupuk Inside. There’s also a smaller, more sheltered spot in the bay that’s great when the waves are too big elsewhere. Stay at one of the local guesthouses or surf camps and you’ll be fine. Just keep in mind that you need to take a boat out to the breaks, so boat rides are an additional cost.

Want to read more?

If you’re interested in more personal stories and experiences of traveling and surfing in Indonesia, check out my book Out of the Mud: a story about surfing, travelling, letting go of grief, and finding yourself.