You can have anxiety about surfing, but you can also use surfing to overcome anxiety. It’s a bit of a two-way street.
Over the last few years, scientific research (the “science of stoke”) has shown that surfing can significantly improve mood and self-esteem, and that it reduces suffering.
It certainly worked for me.
I never thought I would overcome anxiety
I was 20, and it was the day after a heavy night out. I was watching TV alone when suddenly, I lost myself.
It felt as if I was falling away, out of my body. I no longer knew who I was; the only thing I felt was pure fear. I couldn’t even breathe normally. I thought I’d lost my mind and would never get it back.
The rest of the night, I spent sweating in bed, terrified that I would never feel normal again.
What is a panic attack?
According to the ADAA, a panic attack is:
“(…) an abrupt onset of intense fear or discomfort that reaches a peak within minutes and includes at least four of the following symptoms: palpitations, pounding heart, or accelerated heart rate; sweating; trembling or shaking; sensations of shortness of breath or smothering.”
Panic attacks can be psychosomatic or triggered by genetics, stimuli, or thoughts. Whatever the cause, they are anything but pleasant. They can even cause anticipatory anxiety, where you fear an attack so much that the fear itself triggers one.
It took me six months to get back to my old self. Of course, I didn’t talk to anyone about it… what if people thought I was crazy?!
Six years later, it happened again. This time, I decided to seek help. I found a great psychotherapist who told me that a panic attack is just a temporary response of your body to stress. It can come AND go. That helped me relax a little.
Common causes of panic attacks
Here are some common causes and triggers of panic attacks:
- Stress and major life changes. Big transitions like moving, breakups, job changes, or health scares can put your body on high alert, making panic attacks more likely.
- Genetics and family history. If anxiety or panic disorders run in your family, you may be more prone to panic attacks.
- Personality and sensitivity. People who are more sensitive to stress or prone to worry may experience panic attacks more easily.
- Overactive fight-or-flight response. Sometimes your nervous system misinterprets harmless situations (like a crowded room or increased heart rate during exercise) as danger.
- Past trauma. Experiences like accidents, abuse, or intense fear in the past can “train” your body to overreact to stress.
- Health conditions or substances. Caffeine, alcohol, certain medications, thyroid issues, or heart problems can trigger similar symptoms or even cause panic attacks.
So, what caused my anxiety? There can be many reasons, but I’m fairly sure it was a combination of:
- Emotional stress (I lost my dad when I was 17, and didn’t deal with that well)
- The ridiculous amount of alcohol I drank at parties
- A career path I wasn’t happy with
- Lack of regular exercise
But it basically all comes down to too much stress. Stress on the body and stress on the mind. The most important thing I did to overcome my anxiety and panic attacks was learning how to relax. And surfing helped me do that.
How surfing helped me overcome anxiety
Everything changed when I learned to surf 16 years ago. For the first time, I found something I was completely obsessed with, and I changed my whole lifestyle for it.
1. Surfing gets me out of my mind and into my body
There’s something about being in the water that refreshes both body and mind. Surfing forces you to live fully in the moment. On a wave, that’s literally the only thing you can think about.
Is the lip going to smash my head in? Am I going to hit the reef? Did my insurance cover fin cuts? Other than that, no thoughts.
Being on a wave is the ultimate feeling of freedom and connection: freedom from your mind, connection to your body. When you’re fully in your body, all the noise in your mind shuts off—that’s mindfulness.
I remember during my first panic attack, I had a brief moment of mindfulness: for just a few seconds, I became aware of my bedsheets and the wind through the window. For that moment, the panic was gone.
2. Surfing connects me to nature
Surfing also connects me to nature, which has a profoundly positive effect on mental health. Being in nature, the ocean, a mountain, or a forest, reduces anger, fear, stress, blood pressure, and heart rate.
Stress is a major cause of anxiety. One of the best ways to combat it is to get outside: surf, run, hike… whatever gets you into nature.
3. Surfing introduced me to yoga
Since I didn’t live near the beach, I needed a way to stay surf-fit. I discovered “Yoga for Surfers” videos from a Californian teacher. I wasn’t very spiritual back then, so the down-to-earth style was perfect.
I started practicing yoga regularly, eventually did my yoga teacher training, and now practice every day. Surfing and yoga go hand in hand. Yoga teaches me to stay calm, even when surfing in crowded lineups or stressful situations.
Yoga also taught me to see anxiety as a signal from my body that something needs attention, a reminder to slow down, breathe, and adjust. It’s an ugly friend, but a friend nonetheless.
4. Surfing made me travel to warm countries
Sunlight has a positive influence on mental health. It increases serotonin, helping you feel happy, calm, and focused. I was always drawn to warmer countries, but surfing gave me an even greater reason to seek a life under the tropical sun.
And after spending eight winters in Bali, I decided to be closer to home and moved back to Europe. Now, I spend my summers in The Netherlands and my winters in Galicia (Spain) where I teach yoga and surfing.
In short
Surfing helped me overcome my anxiety because it taught me to relax (through yoga), live in the present moment, and use my breath to calm my nervous system. My passion for surfing has shaped my life, and I’m still beyond grateful for it.
Have you ever dealt with anxiety or a panic attack? Share your experience in the comments. I’d love to hear from you.